Why does premium denim cost so much? A friend who has worked on the development of two very successful jeans lines explained the cost to me like this: the sourcing and development of just the right weight denim, just the right wash and finish, and the endless fittings to refine the fit before the jeans are produced is an expensive process. Should they be this expensive at retail?  Probably not -and you are also paying for their ad campaigns. What premium brands do offer is tailoring- a precise and streamlined fit through the legs and bottom that cheaper brands often just don't. The denim is better quality and with that comes the right ratio of lycra to cotton. Too much built-in stretch and the jeans bag out in the seat and at the knees. It's like shoes. Spend as much as you can to have at least one pair that makes a killer impression whenever or however you wear them. As I mentioned in yesterday's post, we were after flattering and democratic fit.  

Yves St. Laurent once said "I wish I had invented blue jeans".  Me too, Monsieur St. Laurent.  A great-fitting pair of jeans is a sartorial magic bullet. 

It's not often that the silhouette-improving benefits of tailoring combine with a fabric as soft and comfortable as a favorite sweatshirt. That is until the gray cotton-jersey boyfriend jacket appeared on the scene last fall. Pre- Spring collections are featuring more jersey than ever making this an easy-to-find and ideal Buy Now Wear Now piece.

Last fall I posted an item about the eternal grooviness of the Breton tee (Nov.3 /Ready to Wear). The Breton 'look' transcends trends and that's why designers return to the idea just about every season. File the Breton under One Hundred Percent Perfect as it is an ideal Buy Now Wear Now piece.  Keep the look sophisticated rather than preppy (aging for over 30's) or 'Ahoy Sailor' by choosing a current riff on offer from resort and early spring collections. It could be as simple as the addition of buttons at the cuff, a design overlayed on the stripes, an interesting sash effect at the hem, or some ornamention on the lapel of a cardigan that adds that punch of new.  Wear one now under a blazer with dark jeans or black pants and boots for graphic good looks and later with white jeans or a pair of the silky trousers that were on many spring runways.  

One of the most intriguing things about the spring collections was the use of unexpected fabrics to reinvent the simplest pieces like Phillip Lim's riff on a classic button down shirt (left) and one of the season's most coveted items -the black leather t-shirt (right)- designed by Phoebe Philo at Celine. Celine was a standout all around for a sophisticated collection of clean-lined sportswear -something that has been in short supply during the 'aughties' preference for frill, froth and stripper wear. 

It had to happen. The fashion pendulum has swung from the over-the-top embellishments of the 'aughties' to something pared down and more utilitarian in spirit.  Unadorned military jackets were everywhere on the spring runways replacing those band leader appliques and brassy buttons of the last few seasons. That's good news for your wardrobe RIGHT NOW. As resort and early spring deliveries replace the sale racks look for this ageless and sophisticated trend for a Buy Now Wear Now LOOK CHANGER.  Works now as a layering piece in the chill of January (anything to rev up a turtleneck and jeans or a wool skirt and tights) and as a go-everywhere outerwear piece when the weather warms up. (Although this is as good as a winter coat for you lucky L.A. girls).

Real girls are in fashion - at least this month. Yesterday's New York Times Thursday Styles featured a front page piece about recent fashion magazine stories with plus-sized models. If you read Glamour you have seen pictures of Crystal Renn (the subject of the Times article) a very gorgeous size 12. The current fashion pages of V Magazine feature Crystal and other plus-sized beauties in their fashion pages this month. So all of this begs the question are these just one offs? What do women really want to look at in fashion magazines?  Could fashion's aesthetic be changing to depict a range of bodies? What do you think?

So many of you have written to me asking about sophisticated looking options for petites. 

Frankly, it's a real drag for special sizes in general. I can't figure out if there seems to be less range because the mass demand isn't there or if for cost cutting measures manufacturers stop producing special sizes altogether. 

Your best bet is online shopping. For a more sophisticated look seek out the right fit but also designs that reference and tweak ideas from top European and American designers. And then it's a case of cherry picking the best from the brands available. Some of the best looking petite pieces I've seen are available on line at J.Crew. Their designs often pick up on ideas straight from the runway from houses like Lanvin. Their translations look modern: ruffles done in a wearable way or groovy takes on outerwear in unexpected fabrics. Try them to add in a blouse for a hit of color and currency. For pants,the Favorite Fit offers the highest rise and in fabrics like super 120 wools for the kind of basic that can anchor your look in black and navy and neutrals alike. Tailored suit jackets are also clean lined and versatile and the fit is reliable.  

Talbot's stores ( as well as on-line) offer current looking petite pants with a very reliable fit. My mother-in-law ( who is tiny) swears by them. Since Talbot's has undergone a change in design direction they are now including pieces in every collection that offer updated shapes and proportions. Ann Taylor while still trying to work out their new design direction also includes a bigger selection of petites both in store and on-line. My experience with the fit for pants, jeans, jackets has been good. Banana Republic and Gap ( for jeans) are alway worth a look.

Scour department store websites. Bloomingdales offers petites in their private label Sutton Studio along with a pretty good selection from lines like Lauren Ralph Lauren. Nordstrom too. 

For discount buys, Simply Vera Vera Wang at Kohl's offers select styles in petites. A note about this line: I have never been wowed by the quality but the references are taken right from Vera Wang Collection as well as from her mid-priced line Lavendar. Cherry picking the odd coat, cardigan or skirt can work (and right now it's all on sale).

Already had your fill of wool scarves?  Even girls in the deep south have had to wrap themselves up to keep warm during the cold snap of the past few weeks.