July 12, 2010
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It's a 90 degree July day and in retail world that means it's time to start shopping for fall clothes. Unfortunately, I never got around to shopping for the bathing suits I need (rather desperately) in February when I was supposed to. One piece suits are on my list and apparently I'm not alone. I read recently that something like 63 percent of women prefer one piece suits. No mystery here since the population of over 40 bathing suit-wearers outnumbers all other female shoppers. But there are more reasons to love the one piece than just 'bits' coverage. Just like wearing the right bra, a one piece suit can be a feat of architecture in lycra and spandex.
I've done some legwork on-line. The 8 one piece suits below were available as of yesterday ( Monday, July 12) many on sale and in a range of sizes and colors. Since nothing is more depressing than the glare of a fitting room fluorescent trained on a half naked body, I prefer shopping for swimwear online. Before I commit to a purchase I perform a fit ritual in front of my bedroom mirror. Try this: Bend over, reach, squat, sit down on the floor indian style. If the suit passes the 'bits' containment test then move on to a color inspection in daylight. Ocean side strolls require skin flattering (and sophisticated) shades. And you don't have to fall back on solid black to look slimmer.
I especially like the look of shirred and ruched styles inspired by the 40's and 50's with feminine lingerie touches. Nothing offers clever camouflage like draping, gathering and embellishment in the right places.
LEFT TO RIGHT: Enhance or fake an hourglass shape in The Original Norma Kamali Swimsuit in black
(also available in white, cobalt and a bright acid yellow). The front of the suit has a shirred top layer over an under layer for a shaping fit. Check out the site's Try Before You Buy option. They'll even help you via Skype. $98 normakamali.com.
Fake a flat tummy, a fuller bust and a smaller bottom in J. Crew's Ruched Femme Tank in neon purple. Available in a D cup. $80-$82 jcrew.com.
The Chikara Anastacia tank with rosette details is designed for women who have had left, right, or bi-lateral mastectomy. Ten percent of the proceeds of Chikara sales are donated to Komen Greater NYC, an affiliate of Susan G. Komen For The Cure. $160 chikaradesign.com.
Ruching, a vertical ruffle and a high cut leg make for a longer, leaner and more hourglass appearance. Suit has a high back and is available to size 16. Karla Coletto $292 everythingbutwater. This site offers great suggestions for different fit questions.
LEFT TO RIGHT: A colorblock design from Spanx creates waist definition, de-emphasizes a tummy. Underwire construction supports and lifts the bustline. I like the slim-appeal of black in a non-black suit.
On sale for $119. The horizontal ruffle detail on this style (detachable straps) also from Spanx, draws the eye upwards from a full bottom and adds volume to a small bust. High cut leg openings make gams appear longer. On sale for $107. Both available spanx.com.
Plus size style Sonatina by Miraclesuit has waist shirring to disguise a tummy and a high cut bottom for a leg lengthening effect. $142 cyberswim.com.
Color blocking, side drape, shirring and a graphic, mid-sized pattern add up to a defined waist, tummy coverage, a minimized bottom. High cut bottom lengthens the legs. Chamberlain sweetheart neck bandeau by Miraclesuit. On sale $70.99 saks.com.
June 07, 2010
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It happened at H & M. Recently, as I rummaged through the racks for a project, I spotted a perfect mid-gray cotton jersey sleeve...a longer sleeve cut in a semi-kimono shape. A crew neck and a row of small buttons from neck to mid-back made things look even more interesting. But yack! When I pulled it free from a snarl of hangers it was just another thigh-high tunic dress. This has happened to me a lot this spring. In my ongoing quest for the perfect tee I've been suckered by too many crotch-high jersey 'dresses'.
But this time, I ran my tape measure across the low hip and doubled the number. After pulling the jersey to test its' give and stretch, I reasoned that if shortened, the dress would make a good-looking tee. And it does. After removing the attached belt loops ( of course a belt was needed to make this thing even shorter) I took la tunic to my trusted quickie alterations lady at the dry cleaner and she reduced the length to just above my low hip.
The spring sale racks are filling up - many stores are on sale at 40%. Don't dismiss that annoying tunic dress. You may have found your next great tee.
June 01, 2010
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You could call it the Hanes Principle. The staple of all wardrobe staples, the tee shirt, has undergone a subtle loosening up this summer with a fit that's closer to a men's classic 3-pack than the baby tees (that never looked good on anyone but Kate Moss) or the cropped and sprayed-on fit of the last decade. Or you could call it the Alexander Wang effect. The CFDA nominee for 2010 Womenswear Designer of the Year has re-worked the tee to reflect a 'boyfriend fit' and the average-woman-on-the-street has taken notice. Below
T by Alexander Wang tee shirt in lightweight rayon jersey $78 lagarconne.com
The shape starts with a skim fit that's flattering to the average female midriff. Time to weed out anything tight or very stretchy. Nothing emphasizes rolls of any variety like lots of elastin. Lightweight cotton, rayon jersey, tencel. modal and silk blends are fabrics that create drape over feminine curves and smooth over bra bulge. The shoulder has changed subtly from high and tight to a slightly dropped line with short sleeves that are a little longer. This is a visual improvement over cap sleeves which cut into the fullest part of a woman's upper arm. The longer line of the boyfriend fit is elongating and flattering when it hits at just above the low hip. Pass on any tee that rides up above your belly button. So, there are three reasons and here are two more. A tee shirt that is shrunken and too tight looks dated and is a look-blower. When you keep your tees modern-looking, you 'll look modern in what you pair them with. And nothing gives a girl more high/low versatility than a good old white tee paired with anything from denim to an evening skirt. This season's statement necklaces look glam not precious with a tee shirt. So look around for a style that works for you.
I recently conducted a workshop and among the most frequently asked questions was " What kind of tee shirts should I buy?" " Should I tuck them in? Leave them out? " "How do I wear longer tee shirts?" Which brings us to tucked vs. untucked. Tucking your tee into low waisted pants and blousing it slightly provides waist definition without any clinging. The half-tuck ( below left) is kid's stuff and looks too sloppy for grownups. If you leave your tee untucked, the hem should reach no longer than low hip or it can have a widening, blocky effect. Choose a bottom that won't look bulky underneath.
Left to Right: Michael Michael Kors plus flutter sleeve tee $69.50 nordstrom.com.
J.Crew softspun cotton tee on sale for $24.50 jcrew.com. James Perse pocket tee on sale $49.50
If a slouchy boyfriend tee isn't your look then go with a trim boat neck tee and a v-neck or u-neck that is just slightly more fitted. And a here's a tip: if you happen to find your best fit in a long sleeve style ( check out the Gap and lines like 3 Dots, for example) then buy a few colors and have the sleeves hemmed to your perfect short sleeve length. It's a simple cut and sew job that the drycleaner can handle.
Left to Right: Kain silk and modal tee $90 and Kenneth Jay Lane necklace netaporter.com.
J Crew Collection sequin sailor tee in neon rose $ 78 jcrew.com.
May 17, 2010
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Shorts are everywhere or maybe I am looking at them more closely after reading an article in the Wall Street Journal about how shorts ( especially in lightweight leather) have been given a huge retail push. Why? Because designers hope they might just be the one thing most of us don't have in our closets. For anything but weekends, anyway.
Utility chic describes the new breed of shorts cut in fabrics like tissue weight leather at Celine (above left). Cotton satine and silk blends are refined enough to wear to work with a jacket or out in the evening with a dressed top like Pringle's metallic knit above (right). Finding the right length short is just like finding your ideal skirt length. You want the length that makes your legs look well proportioned; their longest and leanest. For most grown-up ladies this means an inseam of about 11 inches. But finding longer length shorts that look here and now can be tough in a season of rompers, bum-grazing bloomers and rolled and cuffed styles hemmed at the upper thigh. Enter the classic Bermuda updated two ways: with a slim shape and a tapered hem or with a pleated waist and a slightly fuller leg for a slouchy boy-meets-girl look. Legs look better in longer length shorts with a bit of a heel. Nothing towering required but even a one or two inch wedge heel will flatter.
LEFT TO RIGHT
Anna Sui madras shorts $280 on net-a-porter. Talbot's 11" Bermuda shorts $42.50 talbots.com
DKNY pleated walking shorts $145. Runway images from style.com.
March 15, 2010
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East meets West and points in-between with this spring's abundance of graphic prints. Indonesian batiks and Uzbheki ikats comingle with Kenyan tribal patterns that mix it up with Chinese florals. Central to this mash-up of cultures and color is the art of pattern mixing and nowhere was the look more vibrant than at Dries Van Noten and Duro Olowu whose collections offer a master class in how it's done.
The old rules say that when you combine two or three different prints in one outfit the colors and scale of each must be the same. Wearing an outsized plaid with a tiny floral print will look jangly. A classic combination might combine a stripe of two colors with a floral of the same two colors plus a third color as an accent. But that's the kind of look that can read as a bit pre-coordinated.
So, let's take on the new rules which say mix with abandon and forget about the old rules- but this enthusiasm should come with a warning label. I have seen a few attempts at pattern mixing lately that looked, well, crazy. If you love the look and want to give it a try with your own things here are tips for mixing prints to look confident, not certifiable:
Two images of Dries Van Noten's spring runway (from style.com). On the left: the unifying color is black but the ivory in the jacket is also visible in the black leaves on the pants. Both pieces have pattern placed on the diagonal so although the scale of the jacket is a bit larger, the mix is harmonious.
On the right: The quick take- the blouse appears hot and yellow and the skirt appears cool and blue. But each has the unifying- and visible- colors blue, yellow, red and black. The scale of both prints is the same so the mixture of horizontal and vertical prints looks fluid.
These two looks from Duro Olowu are a beautiful blend of prints that at first glance seem unrelated.
Left: The top and bottom share a bright white ground. They also have the same scale and a similarly graphic vertical pattern. Although the print on the sleeves has different colors it shares the same scale so the look gels.
Right: What unifies these two pieces is the scale of the prints, plain and simple. That each print has only two colors further pulls the patterns together.
Now have a look at your spring and summer prints. Look for similar scale and for the same visible colors between pieces and then have some fun. I have often combined two pieces that have only a white background in common. That's an easy place to start.
March 11, 2010
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As the prevailing winds of fashion blow hot for chic seventies-inspired sportswear, the relaunch of the Equipment line of silk button-down shirts seems right on time. The soft blouse was a seventies wardrobe staple. Think the kind of blouse that every girl tucked into her Calvins or that Faye Dunaway wore in Network. Nicholas Ghesquiere of Balanciaga recently touted the value of the cream colored silk 'Bourgeoise' blouse as a necessity in every modern woman's wardrobe. I am with him. Good bye to the frou frou top and bonjour to soft tailoring.
An Ideal transitional piece in ivory or white to wear now with wool and in a month with the lighter weight fabrics of spring. Choose a skim fit so your blouse will look great tucked into slouchy pants and higher waists. Pictures above: Stella McCartney S/S 2010 on style.com.
Below L to R:
Stella McCartney silk blouse $895 on netaporter.com.
Ann Taylor blouse $78 on anntaylor.com.
Equipment shirt $248 on intermixonline.com.
March 02, 2010
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Who doesn't want to look like a fashion clairvoyant? Few things are more satisfying than being ahead of the pack. There may be a scant twenty days (and counting) until spring arrives officially, but there will be plenty of cold days ahead. Here are a few ideas straight from the NY and Milan Fall/Winter 2010 runways that can resuscitate things you may have languishing in your closet. All images below from style.com.
WIDE LEG PANTS
After seasons of mostly skinny, skinny pants - wide-legged Hepburn pants have made a return. We can thank Phoebe Philo and her inspired spring collection for Celine for starting the momentum. Pull out any wide legs you've had packed away and be admired for your fashion prescience. STYLING TIP: Spring's crop of soft blouses are the perfect foil for a slouchy trouser. Left to Right: Carlina Herrera and Richard Chai Love.
TUX-INSPIRED-JACKETS
Dolce and Gabbana closed their show with dozens of girls marching en masse down the runway wearing one impeccably cut jacket after another in single breasted, double breasted, two buttons, three buttons, long and cropped styles. The unmistakable message: tailoring is back. So pull out your jackets. Or If you shop for something new invest in a truly great black tux-inspired jacket in a lightweight seasonless wool. Wear it now and look forward to fall knowing you'll have the perfect wardrobing piece in place. Left to right: Dolce and Gabbana, Vera Wang, Helmut Lang.
LONGER HEMLINES
Because what goes up (and up and up) will inevitably come down, skirt lengths on many runways were longer. For spring, both Marc Jacobs and Dolce and Gabbana started the southward hemline migration. Marc Jacob's fall runway lineup featured several A-line skirts at just-below-the-knee and also in a longer, stricter mid-calf length. The economy-driven message was loud and clear. Less trying too hard. Less bling and more just plain wearable clothing. Those longer and fuller skirts that you've had packed away deserve some daylight. STYLE TIP: a length at or just-below-the-knee flatters most. Unless you are a model, a mid-calf length is tough to wear without looking frumpy. Left to Right: Marc Jacobs, United Bamboo, Marc Jacobs.
MENS SOCKS AND PUMPS
Wooly and textured or ribbed merino dress socks worn with lady shoes is a look that continues. Prada's fall show made a sensational sock and shoe statement. I like the look of a feminine pump worn with ribbed men's knee high dress socks (long enough to go over the knee). They are easy to pick up anywhere. STYLE TIP: Pair with a longer hemline to avoid looking like a wayward (and crazy) school girl or Hannah Storm of ESPN for you sports enthusiasts.
GET CREATIVE WITH SWEATERS
Knitwear is everywhere for fall but have a look at these ideas and tell me you don't have similar sweaters stacked somewhere. For that cabled jewel neck or button front cardy that you haven't known what to do with: belt it ala Prada. A classic cardigan looks like a cropped knit jacket when closed with a brooch or kilt pin. Or try on some layering with a vest over a shirt and reign in the bulk of an oversized, textured cardigan with a belt.
Left to right: Prada, Dolce and Gabbana, Etro.
REMEMBER THE PANTSUIT? No offense to our Secretary of State Hillary Clinton but her wardrobe of pantsuits is what most women currently associate with the style. But think back to the sartorial glory days of the late seventies and the slouchy and elegant lines of Halston's and Calvin's suits, for example. The look is back. Have a pantsuit to resuscitate? Single or double breasted it doesn't matter - belt the waist. Add a current-looking, tough shoe to avoid any intimations of Madame Secretary.
STYLE TIP: If your suit jacket passes muster but the pants look very boot cut and dated - have a tailor restyle them to a stovepipe shape that skims the hip and thigh and continues in a straight line. 
And Finally... SALES RACK ALERT. Keep a look out for ponchos and capes. A few days ago, as I rummaged through a last gasp please get it out of here sales rack I found a fanatastic Elizabeth and James cape for an absolute song. Actually, cheaper than that. More like a 30-second jingle. Put these looks on your radar.
Jan. 31, 2010
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I was skeptical when I first heard about shaping denim that promises to hold in your stomach and lift your bottom. What would THAT feel like? Spanx with a zipper? Perhaps a sausage casing. Never turning down an opportunity for an improved rear view, your denim testing team tried on several brands. The three brands below scored the highest marks for shape-shifting.
1. Old Navy Dreamer Bootcut Jeans in Midnight wash $34.50 oldnavy.com. Body Types A, B, and C liked these. The fit is good. They feel comfortable and the front panel held in our tummies. As for the promise of a lifted bottom- not so much. The rear view was attractive nonetheless. Available in petite, tall and plus sizes.
2. Hello! Skinny Jeans Barely Boot Cut in Black Wash $178. skinnyjeansdenim.com. The Lamborghini of shaping denim has a steep price tag but delivers on the promise of a flatter-looking tummy and a lifted and shapelier bottom. The inseam is sewn slightly forward creating the look of thinner thighs and longer legs. Hello! Body Types A and B liked the Barely Bootcut while Type C's straight hips were flattered by the Couture Cut. We all loved the bulge-free closure at the waist - a sort of toggle instead of a rivet. Available in sizes 0-12.
3. Not Your Daughter's Jeans Tummy Tuck Straight Leg Jeans $118 nordstrom.com. NYDJ have the highest rises we tried ( right below the navel) so if you have a full and round tummy and bottom then these could be your ticket to a perfect fit. The 'criss-cross' front panel pulled in our tummies. Our bottoms looked lifted. Our thighs looked trimmer and our legs looked longer. NYDJ are definately vanity sized so order a size down as well and keep the one that fits. One complaint: the shiny denims. Since shiny anything amplifies one's size this seems lke bad logic for slimming jeans. It looks a bit tacky to boot. Available in petite and plus sizes.
PS : Also investigate CJ by Cookie Johnson Jeans $178 nordstrom.com. They did not arrive in time for each of us to try them. Frankly, we had all collapsed in a heap and were begging for mercy (and chocolate).
Jan. 29, 2010
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Why does premium denim cost so much? A friend who has worked on the development of two very successful jeans lines explained the cost to me like this: the sourcing and development of just the right weight denim, just the right wash and finish, and the endless fittings to refine the fit before the jeans are produced is an expensive process. Should they be this expensive at retail? Probably not -and you are also paying for their ad campaigns. What premium brands do offer is tailoring- a precise and streamlined fit through the legs and bottom that cheaper brands often just don't. The denim is better quality and with that comes the right ratio of lycra to cotton. Too much built-in stretch and the jeans bag out in the seat and at the knees. It's like shoes. Spend as much as you can to have at least one pair that makes a killer impression whenever or however you wear them. As I mentioned in yesterday's post, we were after flattering and democratic fit.
And while you consider buying a high priced pair I've also included THE BEST CHEAP JEANS I HAVE FOUND!
1. J Brand 805 MId-Rise Straight Leg in Oyster Wash $174 jbrandjeans.com.The leg opening is 2" wider to the knee and they flattered Body Types A, B and C. Good for curvy girls who want a straight look but with the fuller leg of a traditional bootcut. Very nice rear view.
2.Paige Premium Denim 'Hidden Hills' in McKinley Wash $189 nordstrom.com. Just the right stretch. We all liked the fit. Our legs looked longer and leaner and our bottoms were flattered.
3.Red Engine Slim Fit Bootcut $160 nationaljeanscompany.com. These are billed as low-rise but fit like
a mid-rise. Types B and C liked these for the leg fit.
4.THE BEST DENIM DEAL AROUND! Old Navy The Flirt Mid-Rise Bootcut $34.50 oldnavy.com. Very good fit and flattering for Body Types A, B and C. Reads more straight cut than bootcut with a full leg opening. Nice denim and just a bit of stretch to keep it's shape. Available in petite, tall and plus.
Also good: Old Navy Sweetheart Bootcut for Body Types A, B, and C.
Jan. 27, 2010
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Yves St. Laurent once said "I wish I had invented blue jeans". Me too, Monsieur St. Laurent. A great-fitting pair of jeans is a sartorial magic bullet.
Inspired by the many jeans-related questions recently sent to this site, denim is clearly on your minds as well. So your stylist decided it was time for some reconaissance. I enlisted (dragooned) two of my assistants to accompany me on my denim quest. For readers of Style Evolution and The Pocket Stylist, we three represent Body Types A , B and C. For the uninitiated:
A= small shoulders and a small waist with a full, round bottom and full thighs.
B= shoulders the same width as hips with a defined waist.
C=shoulders the same width or broader than hips with a straight waist.
The criteria: NO low-rise anything. Too dated. And while those super high-rise looks with an above the belly-button waist and a sprayed on fit may look new (in an 80's Pat Benatar Love Is A Battlefield kind of way) they only work on reed-thin PYT's. The rest of us should not kid ourselves. We chose only mid-rise or (modern-looking) high-rise styles with contoured waists for the most democratic and figure-flattering fit in bootcut and straight leg openings. We looked at styles in a range of prices from premium (above $100)
to premium looks ( below $100). And we tried to find the best looks and fit offered in petite, tall, and plus.
Important: No nasty light washes- they always draw the eye to an unflattering location. No obvious whiskering, rips or any faux distress-that will happen with wear. Only dark, clean-as-a-whistle finishes made it into our piles. The ultimate trick is finding the right fit. And with fit there is no free pass. You must slog it out in the dressing room or in my preferred location, my bedroom with a pile of mail pouches and UPS boxes filled with options. The advantage? Seeing your various parts in real light, in a distortion free mirror as you sit, walk, deep-knee bend and plie your way to the right fit. And you can try those jeans with different heel heights, and with the jackets, sweaters and more that you wear most.
Critical: an attractive rear view.
Here are our first four top finds:
1. 7 For All Mankind High Waist Boot Cut in Mercer wash $155. bloomingdales.com. We all liked the fit. They flattered the full hips and thighs of Type A, the curvy hips of Type B and made Type C's straight hips look curvier.
2. J Crew Bootcut Premium Rinse Wash $98 jcrew.com. Good for Type B's and C's alike. The slight bootcut leg has just enough ease for curvy hips and fuller bottoms. Great wash and finish for the price.
J Crew offers tall and petite as well in many styles.
3. Levis Capital E Boyfriend Jeans $99.90 (on sale) levistore.com. A flattering cut that is not too baggy. Best on Types B and C.
Fueled by espresso we tried on several more styles from Levis. Here's what we liked:
Levis Eco mid-rise 553 $69.50. Types A, B, and C liked these. Boot Cut 515 $44. The fuller leg opening was especially flattering for Type A and B. They looked too fully cut for Type C's straight hips. Nice rear view.
Available in petite.
Perfectly Slimming 512 $44. Type A and B liked these. They offer a flattering line for fuller hips and thighs. Available in plus and petite.
4. J Brand Scarlett Curvy Bootcut in ink wash $158 jbrand.com. We all liked the fit of these. With just the right amount of stretch ( 2% lycra) they are very flattering. No pocket hoo-haw and a very nice rear view.
Part 2 tomorrow....
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