Nov. 14, 2011
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It's funny when a basic like the cotton t-neck becomes a trendy layering piece as it has this season. White and cream t-necks served as modern layering in many collections. I like the way BCBG Max Azria (1) layered them under dresses. Phoebe Philo at Celine (2) used a cream t-neck as a kind of modernist anchor for a collection she described as inspired by the colors and materials of car interiors. At Bottega Veneta (3) Tomas Maier used the white t-neck to reinvigorate the kind of neat skirt suit Catherine Deneuve wore in Belle du Jour and at Ralph Lauren (4) the combination of a black t-neck under a red satin shirt, mixed with art deco-inspired jewelry is an effortless look for a holiday evening.
There is nothing I love more than an easy and wallet friendly update. These are not your standard issue cotton t-necks however. You want the lightest weight, second skin fit you can get your hands on. You'll find joy in cotton and lycra at H&M for a mere $12.95 ( in cream and black). I have been layering these under dresses, jackets and lightweight sweaters. H&M also has a more deluxe version with a shapely skim fit thanks to strategic bust darts for $29. JCrew's tissue weight turtle is also $29 and a version of BCBG's runway turtleneck ( minus the cool black cuffs) is $68 at BCBG.com.
April 05, 2011
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I've had this this tweet from M. Lagerfeld on ice in anticipation of writing about florals. While I don't agree with his assessment, Karl got me thinking about what combinations of floral pattern plus silhouette work for ladies who are not kids. Florals are tricky. If you can imagine a particular floral looking adorable in a child's size then keep pushing those hangers. Choose a sweet floral in a style that is too girly or Mad Men-retro and it's easy to look crazy (and matronly). Floral and mini lengths are a no if you don't want to look like you are clutching at youth. Not to mention that minis are currently in remission. Fashion loves longer lengths and this trend is only just beginning.
So what works? Simple silhouettes. Longer lengths ( at least knee length). Abstract florals with a modern-art sensibility. Black or dark backgrounds that look sophisticated and not saccharine. (Left- Right) Karl Lagerfeld's take on florals at Chanel combines an explosion of camelias with abstract clouds for evening. Computer designed florals animate Cacharel's silk tee and pants with a hip, op-art sensibility that looks right on city streets. Carolina Herrera's blown-up daisy print on black worn with a white shirt is a blue-chip-chic combination firmly rooted in reality. DKNY's mid-sized floral is as simple as an elongated tee shirt and the slimming property of a uniformly-sized, repeat pattern is a bonus. And note the sandals. They have presence which is the right counterpoint for a strong print.
And now for what doesn't work. Light backgrounds plus retro prints equals a resort or country club vibe that seldom works anywhere except at resorts and country clubs. (Left to Right) The sixties- irony of Dolce and Gabbana's wallpaper floral suit might translate as cheeky if you are under 25 but frumpy if you are not. The Heroines of the Prairie look from Anna Sui is for young things in the first blush of grunge. And the lunch-at-the-club look of Milly's floral dress and capris is an all too common trap for ladies of a certain age who are drawn to the kind of 'fun' prints they loved in college and in their twenties. The stylist for this show tried in vain to toughen-up things with glasses, turbans and statement necklaces lifted from Prada's and Marnie's playbooks but take away the window dressing and the patterns look more frumpy than fun. A woman is guaranteed to look upholstered in a pair of poppy printed capris.
March 16, 2011
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Just for a minute, let's forget words like indispensable, timeless or classic when we think about a crisp white button down shirt. There may be nothing truly new under the sun in fashion but spring's new proportions make the white shirt look, well, new for spring.
At Celine( far left) Phoebe Philo's riff on the white shirt is all menswear slouch with a bib front and relaxed fit. Dries van Noten ( second and third from left) built his spring collection around the notion of shirt dressing and gave the white shirt a new look entirely with blown-up volume and paired with sophisticated, just-louche-enough satin jammy pants. And at Jil Sander, Raf Simon's juxtaposition of white button downs (and white tees) with couture-inspired long skirts looked very hip. Fashion loved the look but naturally, red carpet pundits pilloried Tilda Swinton for her Jil Sander ensemble at the Golden Globes. I love her iconoclastic eye and for not playing the red carpet game.
Why the new spin on white shirts right now? Is it that fashion is searching for anything women will buy? Definitely. Jones New York has devoted their spring campaign to white shirts and the new power dressing. Is it that the mix of masculine with feminine is forever appealing? That too. But the straight forward chic of the white shirt also speaks directly to what is next in fashion: a rejection of noisy, excessively blingy design in favor of a more stripped-down aesthetic. And in a season of brights nothing tempers a vivid colored bottom or jacket like a white shirt.
Freshen-up your own wardrobe with a new button down that's a little oversized (think classic shirt fit from the 80's). It looks newer whether you tuck it in or leave it out than something very fitted. Choose a traditional shirt collar ( have a look at Dries above). Longer collar points (versus a spread collar) combined with the three or four open buttons creates the all important neck-elongating line.
As for price, personally I never spend a fortune on white shirts. But I don't buy fast fashion cheap either. Flimsy cotton doesn't achieve the crisp look that's versatile enough to wear high and low, day and night. And watch out for more than just a touch of elastin in those no-iron styles. Too much and the cotton won't drape nicely.
Jan. 26, 2011
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New York City may be a frozen tundra but I spent last night at the beach thanks to Ann Taylor's LOFT brand.
In a photo studio decked out with cabanas, palm trees and music by DJ Mia Moretti, LOFT hosted an evening to preview their terrific selection for Summer ( May deliveries). Some highlights: water color floral linens, slouchy cotton sweaters and tees, seersucker jackets, batik shifts, wide leg linen pants and a range of great looking accessories including color blocked flat sandals, embellished espadrilles and metallic canvas totes. Standout necklaces featured a chic mix of rhinestones and turquoise. The best part? Nothing costs more than $100.
Dec. 09, 2010
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There is no shortage of interesting-looking bottoms on offer in stores. Whether it's a pair of pants or a skirt in a sheeny satin, a metallic brocade, taffeta or something in sequins like these pants from outnet.com the best way to create a look for cocktails that won't appear overly fussed and trussed is to keep things simple on top. Of course, this is when the ubiquitous crisp white shirt comes in handy for a high and low mix but I like the casual drape of a dead classic cashmere V-neck or turtle neck worn with a statement bottom and some serious-looking faux gems. Try a set of cuffs one on each wrist like Ann Taylor's Swarovski crystal-encrusted eye catchers and a pair of dazzlers at your lobes like this pair by Lee Angel. Or fill in a low v-neck with a statement necklace. I will leave my Gaucho hat and sunglasses at home however.
Dec. 07, 2010
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One of the best strategies for cocktail dressing is to deploy the heavy artillery on the top balanced by something very simple on the bottom. Anything that I can pair with a pair of black pants is on my list. Tuxedo jackets are always a chic option but this season it's a cropped trophy piece of a jacket that looks really new. Something embellished and layered over a sheer blouse looks especially of-the-moment. The look doesn't have to cost a fortune. I've seen options in many price ranges including this embroidered black velvet number from H&M for $49.99. High and low ladies.
Nov. 09, 2010
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The reverse snobbery of fashion democracy is a wondrous thing and the collab of Lanvin and H&M just might be the most frantically anticipated example in the history of haute meets the high street. . ( Rumor has it that both Madonna and J.Lo have hit up the H & M press office for first dibs on samples.)
Lanvin is an exciting fashion get at this price because it is one of those indelibly, unerringly French collections that is utterly unaffordable for the average woman. And there is the appeal of Lanvin's createur, the charming and disarmingly down-to-earth Alber Elbaz who describes his collections as having something for the daughter and something for the mother. Merci, Alber.
Thanks to the wonders of the internet I got a sneak peak. This collection offers many takes on Lanvin signatures likes ruffled and draped short dresses, JUST-LOOK-AT-MY-SHOES statement pumps and elaborate neck treatments. All great but it's the sleek, wearable and ageless look of the faux fur pieces that are right up my street.
According to Women's Wear Daily this one will cost more than the previous H & M designer collaborations, ranging from $199 to $249. Still a steal in my book and I'll be lined up at 8 a.m. when stores open in the US and Canada to storm the gates for a piece (or two) of fashion history.
Nov. 01, 2010
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Wasp waists. Dirndle skirts. Ruffled, pushed up-bustlines. The late 50's/early 60's vibe of the hourglass silhouette inspired many fall collections. The mood was one part Joanie from Mad Men at Prada ( far right) mixed with one part Bardot in 'And God Created Woman' at Louis Vuitton ( far left). Marc Jacobs (center) used the below-the-knee a-line in combination with slouchy jackets and sweaters. Whenever hemlines drop below the knee, skirts and dresses with a strong a-line shape are the easiest to wear. Forget long, straight skirts. The look is strict and impossible to wear. The a-line is the fashion ally of curvy women everywhere. And the-throwback-to-the-50's use of wool flannel works for a sharply defined line because it's soft enough to drape and move with the body but firm enough to hold it's shape.
Key to the look is a smooth, pleat free waist. Pleats plus a-line equals wide on anyone but models. The Talbot's skirt below is seamed diagonally through the hips to further enhance the shape on the body. They pair their skirt with a ruffled blouse. Might be a very wearable nod to the Prada dress ( above far right).
Oct. 25, 2010
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Fall's crop of Double Agents knits -sweaters that also work as jackets or coats- in camel or gray with big time chunky texture will add a hit of 'new' to anything in your closet.
I am always keen on the mix of a textured, casual knit paired with a refined bottom like the evening skirt and sweater pairings at Michael Kors ( above left). The proportion of Philip Lim's oversized poncho cum sweater coat looks especially great with cropped pants. It's the fit through the shoulders that makes this look slouchy and not sloppy. One of season's most coveted items is Stella McCartney's luxe, ribbed camel cardigan (right) which is clearly warm enough to wear naked. Just add heels.
After a little retail reccy, here are a few deluxe-looking alternatives with an off-the-runway appeal for a fraction of the price:
Stella McCartney cardigan ( #1) is $1095 at net-a-porter. The Leah cardy (#2) from Club Monaco is $149 and J Crew's tipped chale cardy ( #4) is on sale for $126.00.
Miu Miu's double breasted sweater coat (#3) is $1195 at net-a-porter and Ann Taylor's alpaca and wool sweater coat (#5) is 198.00. I tried this style on and was so impressed I bought one.
Sept. 03, 2010
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Mark November 20th on your shopping calendar.
WWD reported that the next big 'collab' for Swedish retail giant H&M is with Lanvin designer Alber Elbaz. Not since Karl Lagerfeld designed his capsule collection for H&M have I been this excited about a masstige marriage. Alber is known for tweaking the French luxury tradition with a sensibility that is modern and playful and the H&M collection is reported to be all about Lanvin's cut and tailoring with a focus on form and details for both women and men. Images of the collection will be available on the H&M website on November 2. I may sleep on the sidewalk for this one.
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