Jan. 27, 2010
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Yves St. Laurent once said "I wish I had invented blue jeans". Me too, Monsieur St. Laurent. A great-fitting pair of jeans is a sartorial magic bullet.
Inspired by the many jeans-related questions recently sent to this site, denim is clearly on your minds as well. So your stylist decided it was time for some reconaissance. I enlisted (dragooned) two of my assistants to accompany me on my denim quest. For readers of Style Evolution and The Pocket Stylist, we three represent Body Types A , B and C. For the uninitiated:
A= small shoulders and a small waist with a full, round bottom and full thighs.
B= shoulders the same width as hips with a defined waist.
C=shoulders the same width or broader than hips with a straight waist.
The criteria: NO low-rise anything. Too dated. And while those super high-rise looks with an above the belly-button waist and a sprayed on fit may look new (in an 80's Pat Benatar Love Is A Battlefield kind of way) they only work on reed-thin PYT's. The rest of us should not kid ourselves. We chose only mid-rise or (modern-looking) high-rise styles with contoured waists for the most democratic and figure-flattering fit in bootcut and straight leg openings. We looked at styles in a range of prices from premium (above $100)
to premium looks ( below $100). And we tried to find the best looks and fit offered in petite, tall, and plus.
Important: No nasty light washes- they always draw the eye to an unflattering location. No obvious whiskering, rips or any faux distress-that will happen with wear. Only dark, clean-as-a-whistle finishes made it into our piles. The ultimate trick is finding the right fit. And with fit there is no free pass. You must slog it out in the dressing room or in my preferred location, my bedroom with a pile of mail pouches and UPS boxes filled with options. The advantage? Seeing your various parts in real light, in a distortion free mirror as you sit, walk, deep-knee bend and plie your way to the right fit. And you can try those jeans with different heel heights, and with the jackets, sweaters and more that you wear most.
Critical: an attractive rear view.
Here are our first four top finds:
1. 7 For All Mankind High Waist Boot Cut in Mercer wash $155. bloomingdales.com. We all liked the fit. They flattered the full hips and thighs of Type A, the curvy hips of Type B and made Type C's straight hips look curvier.
2. J Crew Bootcut Premium Rinse Wash $98 jcrew.com. Good for Type B's and C's alike. The slight bootcut leg has just enough ease for curvy hips and fuller bottoms. Great wash and finish for the price.
J Crew offers tall and petite as well in many styles.
3. Levis Capital E Boyfriend Jeans $99.90 (on sale) levistore.com. A flattering cut that is not too baggy. Best on Types B and C.
Fueled by espresso we tried on several more styles from Levis. Here's what we liked:
Levis Eco mid-rise 553 $69.50. Types A, B, and C liked these. Boot Cut 515 $44. The fuller leg opening was especially flattering for Type A and B. They looked too fully cut for Type C's straight hips. Nice rear view.
Available in petite.
Perfectly Slimming 512 $44. Type A and B liked these. They offer a flattering line for fuller hips and thighs. Available in plus and petite.
4. J Brand Scarlett Curvy Bootcut in ink wash $158 jbrand.com. We all liked the fit of these. With just the right amount of stretch ( 2% lycra) they are very flattering. No pocket hoo-haw and a very nice rear view.
Part 2 tomorrow....
Jan. 21, 2010
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It's not often that the silhouette-improving benefits of tailoring combine with a fabric as soft and comfortable as a favorite sweatshirt. That is until the gray cotton-jersey boyfriend jacket appeared on the scene last fall. Pre- Spring collections are featuring more jersey than ever making this an easy-to-find and ideal Buy Now Wear Now piece.
There is a stylish point/counterpoint at work here. Point: the body definition of menswear tailoring. And honestly, who doesn't look better with some structure on her corpus? Counterpoint: a fabric that makes a look effortless. But don't limit your jacket's potential. While it's true she looks great with dark, simple jeans she is also a star with trousers and pencil skirts in wool now and silk later.
(L -R) 3.1 Philip Lim jersey double breasted jacket with twisted cuffs $425 on lagarconne.com. Club Monaco Alex jersey boyfriend jacket $229. For store info. or personal shopping go to clubmonaco.com. See By Chloe cropped cotton-jersey jacket $240 on netaporter.com.
A NOTE ABOUT CROPPED JACKET FIT: This is a proportion made for the new highwaisted pants and skirts.
Now, below are two good buys with a few style caveats:
Left: At $98 this jacket from Boston Proper could be worth a try. It is described as having a shaped waist and a skimming fit. Promising but few looks transmit Cougartown or Bust like wearing your jacket with a 'so-four-years-ago' girly top and faux distressed jeans. Breast augmentation and collagen lips sold separately. bostonproper.com.
Right: This J Jill jacket is nice in person. Your stylist has handled the merch. as the saying goes.
It's $79 and available in Misses, Petites and Womens sizes.
A NOTE ABOUT FIT: J Jill sizing can be generous so order two sizes and keep the one that fits. Another tip: a little tailoring through the sides and down the sleeves will work wonders. Consider shortening the sleeves to 3/4 length for a bit of new. jjill.com.
Jan. 20, 2010
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Last fall I posted an item about the eternal grooviness of the Breton tee (Nov.3 /Ready to Wear). The Breton 'look' transcends trends and that's why designers return to the idea just about every season. File the Breton under One Hundred Percent Perfect as it is an ideal Buy Now Wear Now piece. Keep the look sophisticated rather than preppy (aging for over 30's) or 'Ahoy Sailor' by choosing a current riff on offer from resort and early spring collections. It could be as simple as the addition of buttons at the cuff, a design overlayed on the stripes, an interesting sash effect at the hem, or some ornamention on the lapel of a cardigan that adds that punch of new. Wear one now under a blazer with dark jeans or black pants and boots for graphic good looks and later with white jeans or a pair of the silky trousers that were on many spring runways.
Of course, there is no replacing the appeal of the original corded cotton Meridien by Saint James (#6) but here's a note about fit: it's boxy and ideal for girls who love loose volume on the top paired with something slim on the bottom. For waist definition, try hitching just the center front into your waistband (to create a focal point) with a belt and leave the back untucked. 
1. A tres femme take on the Breton - Sonia by Sonia Rykiel $255 netaporter.com. 2. Great buy with a ballet neck. Aerie by American Eagle $19.50 ae.com. 3. DKNY sweater avail. in March on dkny.com 4. Club Monaco black and white Jessica sweater $79. For store info. or personal shopping clubmonaco.com.
5. Wool blend and embellished cardy $170 on netaporter.com 6. The original Saint James Meridien $85 and available on saintjames-usa.com.
Jan. 19, 2010
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One of the most intriguing things about the spring collections was the use of unexpected fabrics to reinvent the simplest pieces like Phillip Lim's riff on a classic button down shirt (left) and one of the season's most coveted items -the black leather t-shirt (right)- designed by Phoebe Philo at Celine. Celine was a standout all around for a sophisticated collection of clean-lined sportswear -something that has been in short supply during the 'aughties' preference for frill, froth and stripper wear.
I predict that there will be less expensive versions to come at the fast fashion level which is good news for our wardrobe budgets. The look comes off best when the leather is lightweight enough to tuck into a waistband with a smooth result like the skirt pictured below. Boxier cuts worn untucked - like shirt jackets- should be paired with slim, straight-cut bottoms.
For more of both collections have a look on style.com
Jan. 15, 2010
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It had to happen. The fashion pendulum has swung from the over-the-top embellishments of the 'aughties' to something pared down and more utilitarian in spirit. Unadorned military jackets were everywhere on the spring runways replacing those band leader appliques and brassy buttons of the last few seasons. That's good news for your wardrobe RIGHT NOW. As resort and early spring deliveries replace the sale racks look for this ageless and sophisticated trend for a Buy Now Wear Now LOOK CHANGER. Works now as a layering piece in the chill of January (anything to rev up a turtleneck and jeans or a wool skirt and tights) and as a go-everywhere outerwear piece when the weather warms up. (Although this is as good as a winter coat for you lucky L.A. girls).
Designers showed a range of proportions from longer length safari-inspired styles to slouchy field jackets, sharp lined silhouettes inspired by dress uniforms or looks that are cropped, boxy and inspired by WW II so keep a look out for your best shape and proportion.
1. Silk safari from Celine. 2. Marc Jacob's riff on an officer's jacket. Now, anything that Marc does will inspire many imitations. TIP: Notice the high waist placement of the belt on the jacket. Easy to buy a thin belt now and change up a jacket you already own in this shape. 3. The shirt jacket from Balmain ( an obscenely expensive and much-imitated collection and honestly, a version of this won't be hard to find for less).
4. Cropped and 40's-chic from 3.1 Philip Lim.
For more from these collections have a look on style.com.
Jan. 14, 2010
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So many of you have written to me asking about sophisticated looking options for petites.
Frankly, it's a real drag for special sizes in general. I can't figure out if there seems to be less range because the mass demand isn't there or if for cost cutting measures manufacturers stop producing special sizes altogether.
Your best bet is online shopping. For a more sophisticated look seek out the right fit but also designs that reference and tweak ideas from top European and American designers. And then it's a case of cherry picking the best from the brands available. Some of the best looking petite pieces I've seen are available on line at J.Crew. Their designs often pick up on ideas straight from the runway from houses like Lanvin. Their translations look modern: ruffles done in a wearable way or groovy takes on outerwear in unexpected fabrics. Try them to add in a blouse for a hit of color and currency. For pants,the Favorite Fit offers the highest rise and in fabrics like super 120 wools for the kind of basic that can anchor your look in black and navy and neutrals alike. Tailored suit jackets are also clean lined and versatile and the fit is reliable.
Talbot's stores ( as well as on-line) offer current looking petite pants with a very reliable fit. My mother-in-law ( who is tiny) swears by them. Since Talbot's has undergone a change in design direction they are now including pieces in every collection that offer updated shapes and proportions. Ann Taylor while still trying to work out their new design direction also includes a bigger selection of petites both in store and on-line. My experience with the fit for pants, jeans, jackets has been good. Banana Republic and Gap ( for jeans) are alway worth a look.
Scour department store websites. Bloomingdales offers petites in their private label Sutton Studio along with a pretty good selection from lines like Lauren Ralph Lauren. Nordstrom too.
For discount buys, Simply Vera Vera Wang at Kohl's offers select styles in petites. A note about this line: I have never been wowed by the quality but the references are taken right from Vera Wang Collection as well as from her mid-priced line Lavendar. Cherry picking the odd coat, cardigan or skirt can work (and right now it's all on sale).
Nov. 24, 2009
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With the Fall and Holiday seasons' passion for lady-like dressing comes confusion. How much lady in ladylike looks right? Especially for those of us who are over 40. What looks matronly instead of chic?
First, I'l describe what looks a bit too keen. A few evenings ago I was waiting for my table at
The Standard (new, noisy, hot restaurant in the Meatpacking District). Remarkably, amidst all the women who still insist on dressing like Carrie Bradshaw, I saw her. Let's call her La Ruffle. She was wearing a terrific dark, plum colored coat with a ribbon-candy-like ruffle down the front. Chic, graphic and a statement maker. Then she removed her coat to reveal a more insistent passion for the ruffle trend in the low-cut and ruffled neckline of a lavender blouse tucked into a black skirt with an asymmetric ruffle across the front. The skirt was a beauty but who could see clear of the combo-platter of ruffage? It gets better. Her waist was cinched by a metallic ruffled belt. She was shod in 6 inch black pumps (Louboutin natch) with a ruffle detail at the toe and in her hand... wait for it.... a clutch adorned with a large ruffled florette. Ladies, you can not make up an outfit like this. This got me thinking about some quick and handy rules for ruffle wearing. What kind of ruffles look cool in a Dandyish masculine/feminine way? Or in a understated-sexy Lanvin way? How does one avoid a Madame Secretary look? So here are a few seasonal suggestions in time for holiday dressing. For every great look there is a point and counterpoint relationship. The point: one ruffled piece per outfit. The counterpoint: the more femmy and ruffly a piece then the more clean lined and tailored the pieces that make her acquaintance must be. Let's talk the classic combination of ruffled on top and tailored on the bottom.
1. A jacket like this is terrific in wool or velvet. This one is the boiled wool Wrapped-In-Ruffles jacket from anthropology.com $128. 2. Your blouse doesn't have to be white or ivory but few things are more forever than investing in a good one. This is from 3.1 Philip Lim at bergdorfgoodman.com and at $450 is a pricey but truly ageless twist on a white shirt.The point collar and lacing at the wrists make it a perfect foil for tailored pants.3. This blouse from anntaylor.com is $70 and a nice accent under a jacket or paired on it's own with a slim skirt in wool, velvet, tweed. Depends where you are going. 4. The striped suit pant from BR Monogram is $132 and has the right slim 'tuxedo' trouser proportion for a ruffled and fitted jacket. 5. An easier and wider leg trouser works as well with a ruffled blouse. This is also BR Monogram for $152. Both found on bananarepublic.com. 6. The Martey skirt from Diane von Furstenberg is $245 on bloomingdales.com. It has seamed panels and a wider waistband for shape and definition. Perfect with any of the tops. For holiday parties, add saucy shoes, a cocktail ring and a clutch. Shake and stir.
Let's talk about some ruffle dont's. Each of my picks are based on looks I've seen recently on women over 40.
1. Small ground prints or ditsy florals combined with ruffles take on a faux vintage, Granny Takes A Trip irony that is lost entirely when worn by ladies over 30.
2.Plaid and ruffles? Miss Kitty from Gunsmoke, Little House on The Prairie and Deadwood come to mind. Leave this look to girls in their teens and twenties.
4. Nothing says " Waitress!" like a blouse worn shirt tail hem out over black pants. Want to wear your ruffle shirt untucked? Look for a style that is longer and finished specifically to achieve the right look.
5. Under a cardigan (okay this is a bow blouse but same difference. How could I pass up this horror show?). Choose a cardy with enough weight so that your blouse doesn't read through the knit and turning your torso into a crumpled mess. A firmer knit and a belt at the waist give a cardy a tailored jacket appeal worn over a statement blouse. Also choose pants that are tailored and that have a smooth fit - with anything you wear.
Nov. 03, 2009
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The men's original, heavy cotton Saint James 'Meridien' sailor shirt has been made in Saint James, France since 1889. The first cross-dressing success story I can think of is the young Coco Chanel photographed on the beach in Deuville wearing this staple of hard working French fisherman. She looked tres chic, naturellement. Coco's rule- breaking style in her Breton sailor top is faithfully recreated in the movie Coco Before Chanel.
But then there was the gamine Jean Seberg in the film Breathless and Edie Sedgewick photographed in Andy Warhol's Factory in a Breton shirt and black tights. The little top is a blue chip standard for ease and a detache cool that is distinctly French and fashion designers can't resist revisiting the graphic simplicity of the look. Forget the American prep and yachting connotations and wear a Breton-inspired tee or sweater with black pants and boots or jeans and flats. It is the perfect ingredient for taking the stuffy out of any look- offering the perfect punchy graphic under a leather jacket or blazer.
A note about how to wear the original Saint James. It's cut is boxy and ideal for girls who love loose volume on the top and a slim bottom. For waist definition, try hitching just the center front into your waistband with a belt and leave the back untucked.
LEFT TO RIGHT: 1. Big bad shoulders Breton from the Balmain Fall 2009 runway on style.com. 2. The original Saint James Meridien available on saintjames-usa.com and brittanyboutique.com 3. Cashmere sweater from Lutz & Patmos on vivre.com. 4. Button cuffs tweak the look at j.crew.com.
Oct. 26, 2009
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I've only just come around to purple. It's always made me think of Prince's jumpsuits, the packaging for Elizabeth Tailor fragrances and the 80's mania for all things jewel toned. But this season's purple spectrum is nothing if not sophisticated and includes shades like rich raisin, dark concord grape and deepest aubergine. Dark purple is understated. Nothing stagey about it and it provides just the right spark for tried and true colors like gray, camel, red, and navy. Black gets a real boost from purple.
If you look great in purple - meaning you are a winter in Color Me Beautiful parlance- then adding a dark purple jacket or coat to your wardrobe gives you a piece that will complete looks for day and night but I like it best as an accent color. Instead of more black or navy, consider purple for a roomy bag for day, for a combination of opaques and shoes, for gloves. Try on the glint of a purple and metal cuff and carry an exotic ( or faux) purple clutch combined with your LBD for the holiday parties ahead.
Some of this gear is pricey and so- as always- borrow good ideas from the top and interpret as you will at your price range...
1.Akris Fall 2009 runway on style.com. 2. Janis Savitt chain and colored stones necklace from saks.com. 3.Croco-embossed leather cuff KARA by Kara Ross on vivre.com. 4 Marc by Marc Jacobs bag on couturezappos.com. 5. Ruffle pump in raisin from anntaylor.com. 6. Bottega Veneta Fall 2009 runway on style.com. 7. Eggplant python clutch by Sang A. on vivre.com. 8. Kalei pumps on zappos.com.
Oct. 22, 2009
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Sometimes a girl just can not stand the idea of buying yet another black wool coat. But how to satisfy a tight budget and fuse practicality with some color? Sure, those neon colors on the runway at Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors are plenty photogenic but they are also a very disposable income fad. Unless you have a budget for lots of outerwear options, skip the 80's-inspired safety colors.
I am a big fan of the red coat. Whether in a shade of deep claret, a true scarlet, or a luscious tomato- the color red mixes effortlessly with shades of brown, camel, charcoal, aubergine, navy, and of course, black. Choose the right red coat as you would the right red lipstick. What makes your complexion glow?
The coat on the far left by Dries van Noten is a great role model for finding a simple trench-inspired coat or a single breasted style in a rich wine red (in your price range). Add a brown belt at the waist for instant chic. Whether you tap into the military trend (which never goes out of style), go for a minimalist funnel neck or a take on a redingote, you can not miss with red.
Left to right: Dries van Noten (for more Dries van Noten Fall 2009 looks log on to style.com).
Military-inspired d.b. coat by Steve by Searle bloomingdales.com. Funnel neck d.b. coat by DKNY at dkny.com.Orange-red 3/4 pea coat by Lener and double breasted redingote-style by DKNY Coats are both at bloomingdales.com.
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